There are two types of traditional markets in Taipei, the morning market and the evening market. Not only do they open at different times of the day, but the merchandise and customers at each are also very different. Customers of the morning market are mainly housewives and merchandise sold consists of fresh produce, knickknacks and snacks. However, customers of the evening market tend to be workers; there are noticeably more stands selling cooked foods offering choices for customers who wish to bring dinner home. Markets also vary depending on location and the types of merchandise sold. In this month’s magazine, we introduce the city’s most unique wholesale, morning and evening markets, which showcase the charm and diversity of Taipei by revealing the many faces of the metropolis.
Wholesale Markets: Defined by Quantity and Pricing
The First Fruit and Vegetable Wholesale Market — Undisputed Leader of the Taipei Wholesale World
The First Fruit and Vegetable Wholesale Market (第一果菜批發市場), located on Wanda Road (萬大路) next to the Taipei Fish Wholesale Market (臺北市魚類批發市場), opens at 3 am every day, ready to deliver fruit and vegetables to all corners of Taipei city.
After completing its wholesale transactions it transforms into a regular traditional morning market; its fruit and vegetables are typically 20-30% cheaper than other markets because of its location in the city’s wholesale district. This attracts many buyers who operate restaurants, retail shops and street carts. In the fruit wholesale area, scales are rarely seen as sales are typically transacted by the box. In the fish wholesale market, there are nearly a hundred stands displaying and selling seafood from the Penghu (澎湖) and Pingtung (屏東) areas. Some rarely-seen ocean catches can also be found here. Fish merchants often go out of their way to teach buyers how to pick the right fish. In the little Alley 12, Lane 492 Wanda Road, opposite to the fruit and vegetable market, is Taipei’s most famous seafood street. It is also a wholesale market; however, in comparison to other typical fish markets, it provides the freshest catches kept alive in large water tanks.
There is also a broad array of popular eateries that serve breakfast, such as the Rice Noodle Soup (米粉湯) established 50 years ago, a place that comes highly recommended among locals, which attracts merchants with its unchanging, traditional taste and commitment to scrumptiousness! Chang’s Oil Bean Curd Skinny Noodles (張記油豆腐細粉) is another local favorite, serving delicious soup and famous multi-layered pastries with turnip and red bean, all of which are refined and truly reflective of memories from the past.
The Second Fruit and Vegetable Wholesale Market — No. 1 in Fruit and Vegetable Wholesale
The Second Fruit and Vegetable Wholesale Market(第二果菜批發市場), known as the Binjiang Market (濱江市場), is a designated purchasing venue for many restaurants in the greater Taipei area. In comparison to the First Fruit and Vegetable Wholesale Market, this venue offers a significantly greater variety of fruit and vegetables. There are also many specialty stands, featuring spices, mushrooms, etc. Because of this, there are also many executive chefs of different restaurants who join the morning shopping rush along with housewives.
In addition to vegetables, there is also a large variety of high-end fruit including Aomori apples from Japan, cherries from Australia and juicy locally-produced grapes and wax apples from Nantou (南投). A visit here is definitely a visual treat!
Located across from the fruit and vegetable market is the Taipei Fish Market (臺北魚市), which supplies fresh and reliable fish products. The Addiction Aquatic Development (AAD; 上引水產) next to the Taipei Fish Market is the most popular tourism fish market in Taipei. The 1,986 square meters space of AAD contains ten different areas, including an aquatic area, a supermarket, themed dining restaurants and a lifestyle retail area, which is beautifully lit and decorated. Customers can find live king crabs and mitten crabs directly imported from Hokkaido, and order them prepared to go. The “Stand to Dine” (立吞) area offers instantly prepared delicacies, the outdoor patio features a charcoal grilled seafood BBQ and the second floor showcases hot pot. These dining features combine to make AAD a uniquely diversified and highly interactive international seafood market.
Discovering Freshness in the Morning Market
Mucha Market — A Large Selections of Local Favorites
Mucha Market (木柵市場), located on Baoyi Road (保儀路), is the largest traditional market in the Wenshan District (文山區). This two-story building offers vegetables, dried meats and other general merchandise on the first floor and fresh fish and meat on the second floor. Mucha Market is relatively small; however, compared with other wholesale markets it’s unique because of where its merchandise is sourced. Featured products come not only from the neighboring Maokong (貓空) and Caonan (草湳) mountain region, but also from nearby Shiding (石碇), Shenkeng (深坑) and Pingxi (平溪) areas. Products such as loofah and cabbages from more far-flung places like Yilan (宜蘭) can also be found here.
Although not big, Mucha Market features stands with a reputation both far and near, such as the famous Guanying Tea (冠盈茗茶). This famous boutique teahouse sells organic tea, Taiwan high mountain tea from various regions, Yunnan Pu’er (雲南普洱) tea cakes and many of the finest teas sought after by tea connoisseurs. Because of its unique attributes, the Mucha Market appeals not only to local residents but also to visitors from nearby Shiding and Shenkeng who often come to patronize this market.
Dongmen Market — A Market for the Taipei Elite
The Dongmen Market (東門市場), located at the corner of Jinshan South Road (金山南路) and Xinyi Road (信義路) entrance, is a market established after the Government of the Republic of China was moved to Taipei. Many government officials live in this neighborhood, and to satisfy the shopping needs of their wives, high quality food and cooking materials were gathered and sold in this market. Because the quality of food sold here used to top all other markets in Taipei, it was once referred to as the Elites’ Market.
There are many famous street food stalls in the Dongmen Market. Amongst all, The Dongmen Duck (東門鴨莊) features crispy ducks and honey pork prepared daily by masters from Hong Kong who have lived in Taiwan for more than 30 years. The authentic, fresh and richly flavored specialties offered at this store attract many Hong Kong visitors and local residents alike. There is also the famous Xing’s Food Store (興記食品行) located at the Jinshan South Road entrance. The business, which has been passed on to the third generation, has been operating for 55 years. Its specialty dishes are Eight Treasure Rice Pudding (八寶飯), turnip cakes and dim sum. Its handmade dumplings are renowned for their sensational wrapper and high quality filling. Customers wait in long lines to purchase these dumplings which are also loved by the famous actress, Brigitte Lin (林青霞).
Beitou Market — A Welcome Taste of the Countryside
Beitou Market (北投市場) has existed since the Japanese period, and is one of Taipei’s markets with the richest history. Insiders say that the best goods are not only found in the main market located in the buildings, but also in the little neighboring alleys. Because of its proximity to the mountains of Yangmingshan, one can often find vegetables grown and brought down from the hills by local farmers. The baskets of high mountain vegetables carry a delightful freshness unique to homegrown produce.
The historical Beitou Market is also known for its traditional street foods. Amongst all, the enjoyment of Caiyuanyi Black Tea (蔡元益紅茶) has become a daily ritual for many Beitou residents. The teashop has been at its current location for decades and its black tea is made fresh every day, enticing customers nearby with its beautiful aroma and light yet sophisticated taste at only NT$10 a cup, it is very inexpensive and not too sweet. Jian’s Crisp Rib Noodle (簡記排骨酥麵) is also a popular spot which is always packed with waiting customers. Its delicious clear noodle soup does not contain any greasy minced pork and once tasted is hard to put down. Another hidden attraction is the Beitou Curry Rice (北投咖哩飯); the rich aroma of curry wafts from the restaurant’s entrance into the street in front, attracting long lines of people.
Finding Bargains in the Evening Markets
Yongchun Evening Market — A Unique Place in Xinyi District
The Yongchun Evening Market (永春黃昏市場), which opens after 3 pm each day, is probably the largest evening market in Taipei. Centered around the Yongchun public market, street stands expand along both sides of Hulin Street (虎林街). This market offers beef, pork, poultry, fruit and a huge variety of cooked items. Fruit stands nearby Section 5, Zhongxiao East Road (忠孝東路5段) line the streets with an abundance of fresh fruit in a vibrant range of colors.
Areas near the Yongchun public market include a designated section for cooked and pre-prepared foods offering many smoked items and popular fried dishes such as fried chicken. This vibrant market has become a very popular dinner spot for Taipei’s workforce. Yongchun market, which lies near the early military housing has up to five shops which specialize exclusively in steamed buns and dumplings. The delicious smell of twenty different types of steamed buns created by the Jinlongyi Steamed Buns (津隆益手工包子饅頭) permeates the neighboring street.
The Yongchun evening market is located next to the MRT Yongchun station, which makes it easy to access. This market becomes even more vibrant close to closing time. The unique sounds of merchants calling for business echo like waves rising and falling through the market streets.
Wende Evening Market — Favored by Neihu Technology Park Workers
The Wende Evening Market (文德黃昏市場), at Lane 66, Wende Road (文德路66巷), has traditionally been a favorite spot for the people working in the Neihu Technology Park, who often pick up a few dinner dishes here on their way home.
The Wende Evening Market, a street market just 300 meters long, has been in existence for more than 30 years. Its uniqueness lies in the broad array of cooked food selections it offers. Its steamed fresh meat buns (好呷鮮肉包) are favorite afternoon snacks, and the fresh meat buns are often completely sold out by 5:30 pm each day. The Lu’s Boiled Salted Chicken (呂家鹹水雞) has been selling each morning in Jiangnan Market (江南市場) for more than 30 years. Both of its signature roast chicken and oil chicken are famous for their tender skin and juicy meat, and both are much sought after.
There are three different “faces” to Taipei markets: wholesale, traditional and evening markets. Exploring them will undoubtedly provide a deeper insight, awareness and interesting perspective of street life in Taipei.
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